Meal Magazine story: Cooked by fire, filled with memory

Did you miss my story for Meal Magazine when it appeared in print in their stunning Issue 1? (You can order the worthy hard copy here.)

Thanks to Meal going digital, it’s now online.

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Over the last 15-20 years, many U.S. natives have added a new dish to their food vocabulary: pupusas.

But not everyone understands why these Salvadoran snacks started showing up around major U.S. cities—and how our own government played a role in getting them there.

That journey is a tale of war, migration, imperialism and how deeply food is engrained in our identities and histories.